Jordan with Kids: Petra, Falafel Breakfasts and an Honest Look at Travel Advice (2026)

Our Jordan Story: Falafel for Breakfast and a Driver Called Hamead

Growing up in Queensland, I’d barely heard of Jordan. It just wasn’t on my radar. So when Marty and I visited in 2013, years before Louie and Leo, I didn’t know what to expect. It completely surprised us. 🌍

It didn’t start smoothly. We’d barely arrived when we got lost, standing around looking confused. Another traveller overheard us, worked out what we needed and pointed us the right way. That set the tone for the whole trip. The people we met were so friendly, and we felt welcome everywhere we went.

To get around, we hired a private driver for several days. That’s a common way to see Jordan, and it’s how we met Hamead. He took us everywhere.

On one scorching day, Hamead told me to drink hot tea because it would cool me down. It sounded backwards to me at the time.

Petra was unbelievable. You walk through a narrow canyon called the Siq, and then the Treasury appears in front of you. Photos don’t prepare you for it.

The Dead Sea was so much fun. The water is so salty that you float without trying. We covered ourselves in the mud too, which is exactly as messy as it sounds. Louie would love it.

Then there was the food. Falafel for breakfast turned out to be normal in several places we visited, and we had the best falafel of our lives in Jordan. The breakfasts carried on when we crossed into Israel next.

We also spent a night at a desert camp in Wadi Rum, which was pretty wild. Some camps throw big, loud parties late into the night. I didn’t join in. I just didn’t sleep, and I felt pretty wrecked the next day. If you’re going with kids, pack earplugs.

We haven’t been back with the boys yet. This guide mixes those memories with current research on costs, visas, schools and travel advice, and we say clearly which is which.

Travel Advice for Jordan Right Now

Start here, before you look at flights. As of 1 October 2026:

• Australia: Smartraveller advises Australians to reconsider their need to travel to Jordan, because of the security situation in Jordan and the wider region and the threat of terrorism.
• The Netherlands: since 21 July 2026, the Dutch government has rated all of Jordan orange, which means essential travel only.
• Flights: European aviation authorities have advised airlines to avoid airspace in parts of the Middle East, including Jordan. Flights can change or be cancelled at short notice.

Check your insurance. Many Dutch insurers change their cover when the advice is orange or red, and Australian policies may not cover travel against government advice. Read the fine print before you book anything non-refundable.

I’ll be honest: this one saddens me. Everything we saw of Jordan was warm and welcoming, and fewer visitors hurts the people who rely on tourism. But travel advice also affects your insurance, so we wouldn’t book against it with Louie and Leo. Check the latest advice from your government, and if it eases, go.

Check current details with Smartraveller (Australia) and NederlandWereldwijd (the Netherlands). If you hold another passport, check your own government’s advice too.

Jordan for Families: A Trip or a Base?

Our honest answer: for most nomad families, Jordan works best as a few weeks of slow travel, not a long-term base.

Here’s why. The tourist visa is single entry and one month long, although you can extend it. You also need to register with the police early in your stay: Smartraveller says after 30 days, while Belgium’s foreign ministry says within 14 days of arrival. Longer stays may also need medical and HIV tests. There’s no digital nomad visa. And Amman isn’t cheap compared with Southeast Asia.

Where Jordan shines is depth. In a few weeks, kids can walk through Petra, sleep in the desert, float in the Dead Sea and taste a whole new food culture. For worldschooling families, that’s a lot of learning in a small country.

It suits families who are already nearby, such as in Europe or the Gulf, and want a history-rich stretch before moving on. Looking for a longer base in the region? Compare our guides to Dubai, Oman and Turkey, or start with our Middle East overview.

Where to Base Your Family in Jordan

Families who stay longer usually choose Amman for schools and services. Aqaba suits beach and reef lovers. Madaba and Salt are smaller, quieter towns within reach of the capital.

We haven’t lived in any of them, so this section is based on research rather than our own stays.

Amman: The Practical Choice

Amman is Jordan’s capital, and it’s where you’ll find most of the international schools, private hospitals and coworking spaces. If you need formal schooling or reliable healthcare, Amman is the realistic option.

The city spreads across steep hills, and it’s very car-dependent. West Amman areas such as Abdoun and Jabal Amman are popular with expats, with cafés, restaurants and embassies close by.

Suits: families with school-age kids, parents who need coworking, and anyone who wants big-city services.

Good to know in Amman:

• Rent: Numbeo puts a 3-bedroom apartment at about JD300 (€365) a month outside the centre and JD540 (€660) in the centre. Furnished short stays cost more.
• Traffic: rush hour can be slow, so living near your school or coworking space makes a big difference.
• Demonstrations: Smartraveller notes that protests happen often, especially after Friday noon prayers, and can close roads. Most are peaceful, but avoid large gatherings.
• Coworking: Amman has a growing coworking scene, but spaces open and close. Check current reviews before you commit.
• Winter: Amman sits high enough for cold winters, and snow is possible. Check that rentals have proper heating.

Aqaba: Red Sea Living

Aqaba is Jordan’s only coastal city, on the Red Sea in the far south. It’s the base for snorkelling and diving, and it’s close to Wadi Rum, so beach days and desert trips are easy to combine.

The trade-offs are real. Summers are extremely hot, there are fewer international schools than in Amman, and it’s a long drive from the capital.

Suits: families with younger kids, ocean lovers and worldschoolers who don’t need a formal school. Our guide to the ocean as a worldschooling classroom covers the Red Sea in more detail.

Good to know in Aqaba:

• Healthcare: Aqaba has private clinics, but serious cases may still mean a trip to Amman.
• Border crossings: Aqaba is near the Wadi Araba crossing with Israel. Crossings can close without notice, so check before you plan around one.
• Heat: plan outdoor time for early mornings and evenings for much of the year.

Madaba: Mosaics and a Slower Pace

Madaba is a small town southwest of Amman, known for its Byzantine mosaics, including the famous mosaic map of the Holy Land in St George’s Church. It’s a short drive from Mount Nebo and the Dead Sea.

Life is quieter and cheaper than in the capital, and Amman’s schools and hospitals are within driving distance.

Suits: worldschooling families who want a calm base with history on the doorstep.

Good to know in Madaba:

• Services: there are fewer international options here, so most families head to Amman for schools and specialist care.
• Transport: you’ll want a car or a regular driver.

Salt: A Historic Hill Town

Salt is a hill town northwest of Amman. Its old town of honey-coloured stone buildings was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021.

It’s local and low-key, with fewer expats and fewer English-language services than Amman.

Suits: families who want a quiet, local experience and are happy to drive into Amman when they need to.

Good to know in Salt:

• Schools and coworking: plan on Amman for both.
• Getting around: the streets are steep, so expect to drive or use a driver.

Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea with Kids

These three are the reason most families come to Jordan, and they’re very kid-friendly with a bit of planning.

Petra

Children under 12 enter Petra free during daylight hours, according to the Jordan Tourism Board. Adults need a ticket or a Jordan Pass.

• Go at opening time to beat the heat and the crowds.
• Expect a lot of walking on uneven ground. With a toddler like Leo, a carrier works far better than a pram.
• Watch the weather. Flash floods can hit Petra. Smartraveller notes that about 1,785 tourists were evacuated in May 2025.
• Petra by Night needs a separate ticket. The tourism board lists it at JD30 per person, with children under 10 free. Check current details.

Wadi Rum

Most families stay at a desert camp and take a jeep tour through the red sand and rock. Nights get cold, so pack warm layers. And from experience: read recent reviews for noise, and bring earplugs. 😄

The Dead Sea

It’s the lowest point on land, and the water is so salty that kids float straight away. Keep a few rules in mind:

• Keep the water away from eyes and mouths. It stings.
• Skip shaving the day before, and cover any cuts.
• Keep dips short, stay close to little ones and rinse off at the showers.

The Jordan Pass

The Jordan Pass bundles entry to Petra and over 40 other sites, including Jerash and Wadi Rum. Buy it before you arrive and it can also waive the visa fee. Children under 12 don’t need their own pass. More details are in the Visas section.

For more history-rich ideas, see our 13 destinations for families who love history.

Daily Life in Jordan: Homes, Internet and Getting Around

Finding a Home

Furnished apartments are the norm for families staying a month or more. Local agents and expat Facebook groups list longer rentals, and these often cost less than short-stay platforms.

Before you sign, ask about:

• Heating and cooling. Amman gets cold in winter and hot in summer.
• Water. Jordan is one of the most water-scarce countries in the world. Many homes store water in rooftop tanks, so ask how supply works.
• Stairs and lifts. Hilly cities mean a lot of steps, which matters with a pram.

Internet and Remote Work

Numbeo lists home broadband (60 Mbps or faster) at about JD23 (€28) a month and a mobile plan with 10GB+ data at about JD11 (€14) in Amman. Speeds outside the main cities vary, so test the connection before you commit to a rental.

The time zone is handy for European work. Jordan is one to two hours ahead of the Netherlands, depending on the time of year.

Getting Around

• Hire a driver. For day trips and the Petra and Wadi Rum loop, a private driver takes the stress out of it. That’s how we did it.
• Use licensed taxis or reputable ride-hailing apps in Amman, ideally booked through your accommodation.
• Driving yourself: you’ll need an International Driving Permit. Road accidents are common, and Smartraveller warns that roads are dangerous at night.
• Women travelling alone: Smartraveller advises sitting in the back seat of taxis.

Schools and Worldschooling in Jordan

International Schools in Amman

Amman has the country’s main cluster of international schools, teaching IB, British or American curricula. Three well-known options:

• International Academy Amman
• Amman Baccalaureate School
• Modern American School

Fees: Numbeo’s average for international primary school is about JD6,890 (€8,400) a year per child, with reported fees from about JD3,000 to JD18,800 (€3,650 to €22,900). Ask schools for the full fee schedule, including enrolment and bus fees, and check for waiting lists.

Outside Amman, international options are limited.

Homeschooling and Worldschooling

We couldn’t find clear official guidance on home education for foreign families on short stays. Most travelling families keep their home-country arrangements while they visit. Our worldschooling legal guide explains how residence affects the rules.

As a worldschooling destination, Jordan is rich. Ideas that work well:

• History: the Nabataeans at Petra, the Romans at Jerash and the mosaics at Madaba.
• Science: why you float in the Dead Sea, and how deserts form.
• Language: a few Arabic words, like marhaba (hello) and shukran (thank you).

New to this way of learning? Start with our worldschooling guide.

Childcare

Numbeo lists private full-day preschool in Amman at about JD343 (€420) a month on average. Expat groups are the usual way to find nannies and babysitters, so ask for references.

Health and Insurance in Jordan

Amman has high-quality private medical services. Outside the major cities, health services are basic, and serious cases may need a transfer to Amman or evacuation.

Things to know:

• Hospitals and clinics may ask you to pay upfront, even if you have insurance.
• Australia has no free healthcare agreement with Jordan, so tourists pay for all care.
• Heat and dehydration are the everyday risks with kids. Carry water and plan around the midday sun.
• Smartraveller advises avoiding raw camel milk and undercooked camel meat because of MERS.

Choose a policy that covers medical evacuation and check what it says about government travel advice. Our health insurance guide for nomad families compares the main options.

Vaccinations and Medication

See a travel clinic six to eight weeks before you go to check routine and travel vaccines. If you’re arriving from a country with yellow fever risk, you’ll need a vaccination certificate. Our travel vaccinations guide for families explains how we plan ours.

Bringing medication? Check it’s legal in Jordan with the Jordan Food and Drug Administration, and carry a doctor’s letter.

Food and Culture in Jordan

What We Loved Eating

Jordan is easy for vegetarian families. Everyday food includes falafel, hummus, foul (slow-cooked fava beans), mutabbal (smoky eggplant dip), lentil soup and fresh salads. For something sweet, try knafeh, a warm cheese pastry soaked in syrup.

Meat lovers will meet mansaf, lamb cooked in fermented yoghurt and served over rice. It’s the national dish and often shared at big family meals.

And yes, falafel for breakfast. It’s a must. 🧆

Culture and Customs

• Hospitality: tea is offered often, and it’s polite to accept. Hot tea in the heat, as Hamead taught me.
• Dress: local customs are conservative. Covering shoulders and knees is respectful, especially outside tourist areas.
• Weekends: the weekend is Friday and Saturday, and Friday is the main day of prayer.
• Ramadan: eating, drinking and smoking in public during daylight is illegal. Plan meals indoors.

Love planning trips around food? See our 13 destinations for families who love food and culture.

Visas for Families Visiting Jordan

Checked against official sources in September 2026. Visa rules change, so check current details before you travel.

Visa on Arrival

Australian and Dutch passport holders can get a single-entry visa on arrival. It costs JD40 per person and is valid for one month. Children need their own visa too.

One thing to check: Smartraveller describes single-entry visas as valid for 90 days, while the Jordan Pass FAQ says one month. Confirm with the Jordanian authorities before you plan a longer stay.

The Jordan Pass

Buy the Jordan Pass online before you arrive and it waives the visa fee for adults, as long as you stay the minimum number of nights. The official Jordan Pass FAQ currently shows both two-night and three-night versions, so plan on three to be safe. It only covers a single-entry visa.

Children under 12 don’t need a pass, because they enter tourist sites free with their parents.

Staying Longer

• Extensions: you can extend at a police station. Official fee information varies, so ask locally.
• Police registration: official sources disagree on the deadline. Smartraveller says stays over 30 days; Belgium’s foreign ministry says within 14 days of arrival. To be safe, register within 14 days. Longer stays may also need medical and HIV tests.
• No nomad visa: Jordan doesn’t offer one. See our digital nomad visas by country for places that do, and our guide to staying longer without a nomad visa.

Crossing to and from Israel

We crossed into Israel after Jordan. Today, crossings may close without notice, so check both countries’ official information first. Some countries in the region may refuse entry if your passport shows you’ve been to Israel.

The Challenges of Jordan with Kids

• Travel advice: it can change quickly. Book flexible flights and stays, and keep checking. See Travel Advice Right Now.
• Heat: summers are very hot, especially in Aqaba, Wadi Rum and the Jordan Valley. Plan outdoor time for early mornings.
• Water scarcity: short showers and careful use are part of daily life.
• Roads: accidents are common, and night driving is risky. A good driver is worth the money.
• Harassment: Smartraveller notes that women are often subject to harassment, including leering and unwanted contact. Solo mums should plan transport carefully.
• Imported goods: familiar brands, nappies and formula can cost more than at home.
• Community: the expat family scene is small, so it helps to connect with other families before you arrive.

Jordan with Kids: FAQs

Is Jordan safe for families right now?

Australia currently advises reconsidering your need to travel to Jordan, and the Netherlands rates all of Jordan orange (essential travel only). We wouldn’t travel against that advice with our boys. Check your government’s current advice and your insurance before you book.

Do kids need a visa or a Jordan Pass?

Children need their own visa. They don’t need a Jordan Pass, because under-12s enter most tourist sites free with their parents.

How long can a family stay in Jordan?

The visa on arrival is valid for one month and can be extended at a police station. You also need to register with the police, ideally within 14 days of arrival, because official sources disagree on the exact deadline. There’s no nomad visa.

Is Petra doable with a toddler?

Yes, with a carrier, plenty of water and an early start. The walking is long and uneven, so a pram won’t get far. Plan breaks in the shade.

Can kids float in the Dead Sea?

Yes, and they’ll love it. Keep dips short, keep the water away from eyes and mouths, cover any cuts and rinse off afterwards.

Is Jordan good for vegetarians?

Very. Falafel, hummus, foul, lentil soup and salads are everyday food, and they’re cheap and filling.

When is the best time to visit Jordan with kids?

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). Summer is very hot, and the rainy season from November to March can bring flash floods. Our month-by-month guide to the best time to travel helps you plan around the seasons.

How much does a month in Amman cost?

For a family of four, Numbeo’s averages suggest about €2,850 to €3,150 a month including rent, before school fees and insurance. See What It Costs for the breakdown.

Our Takeaways

For now, Jordan sits on our “one day soon” list. We’d love to watch Louie’s and Leo’s faces as they walk through the Siq and Petra reveals itself. That moment is going to be something else.

We check the travel advice regularly. When it changes, we’ll be booking a driver, a desert night (with earplugs this time) and a very early falafel breakfast. We’ll tell you how it goes. 🌍

Keep planning: the Middle East for nomad families · our Morocco guide

Last updated 01-10-2026. Travel advice, visa rules and prices change often, so check current details before you book.