The American West with Kids: 11 Family Bases from Portland to Moab (and What 90 Days Allows)

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🎰 Our Story: A Ghost Town, a Ferrari and Louie’s Middle Name

Louie’s middle name is Nelson. People sometimes ask if it’s a family name. It isn’t. It’s a ghost town in the Nevada desert. 🌵

Marty and I eloped in Las Vegas about 12 years ago, on our two-year trip before the kids. The day before the wedding, we hired a Ferrari and drove it out to Nelson, about 45 minutes from the Strip. Film crews and photographers use its rusty cars and old mining shacks as a backdrop. We used them for our wedding photos. 🏎️

The next day we married at a little chapel called the Wedding Chapel of Las Vegas. I can’t find it online now, so it has probably closed or changed its name. Chapels in Vegas come and go.

Afterwards, still in our wedding clothes, we rode the rollercoaster at New York-New York, where we were staying. The ride back was in a Lamborghini with our friends, and a driver called Karl. Not our usual budget style, but you only elope once. 💍

That’s the extent of our American West. Marty also travelled through California on his first solo trip, long before we met. We spent three months on Hawai’i’s Big Island too, and that story lives in our Hawai’i guide.

Quick note on what’s what: we haven’t been to any of the 11 family bases on this page. Everything about them is researched and was checked on 08-10-2026. Our wider North America story, including Canada, is in our North America comparison guide.

🛂 The 90-Day Reality: What You Can Fit In

Most families with Australian or EU passports visit the USA on an ESTA, which allows stays of up to 90 days. That limit shapes every plan for the American West, so it’s worth starting here.

The clock doesn’t reset. A side trip to Canada or Mexico generally counts towards the same 90 days. San Diego sits close to the Mexican border, so this catches people out. We learnt how strict the limit is at Honolulu airport, one day over. That story is in how to stay longer without a digital nomad visa.

What 90 days could look like

Ninety days sounds long until you see the distances. Fewer bases and longer stays work better with kids, especially a toddler. Here’s one example of a slower route, not a plan we’ve done:

• Weeks 1 to 4: Portland, for city life, bikes and a settling-in month.
• Weeks 5 to 7: the Oregon Coast or the Redwoods, for beaches, tidepools and forests.
• Weeks 8 to 12: San Diego, for beaches and a gentler climate before flying out.

A desert loop through Zion, Bryce and Moab suits spring or autumn instead, because summer heat is hard on small children. Book your exit flight well inside the 90 days.

The detailed entry rules, including longer visitor visas and remote work, are in the visas section further down.

🌲 Portland, Oregon

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

Portland is the base on this page we’d choose first, mainly for the bikes. 🚲 It’s a city where cycling to the market or the park is normal. The food carts, co-ops and weekly markets also suit a family that cooks vegetarian.

Families often look at Sellwood, Mount Tabor and the Alberta Arts District for walkable streets and parks. Within a couple of hours you can reach the Columbia River Gorge, Mount Hood or the Oregon Coast.

Good for: families who want a city base with green space, bikes and good food.

Learning and work

The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry (OMSI) is a strong rainy-day option, and the Gorge’s waterfalls make an easy science lesson. Fast home internet is common, and Kiln runs a coworking space in the city. Check current membership prices before you go.

If two wheels matter to your family, our cycling cities guide covers other bike-friendly bases.

Before you choose Portland

• Rent is high. Numbeo’s average for a three-bedroom flat outside the centre is around €2,400 a month.
• Some summers bring wildfire smoke that keeps kids indoors for days.
• Homelessness is visible in parts of the city, which can be confronting with children.

🌵 Joshua Tree, California

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

Joshua Tree is a high-desert town of artists, homeschoolers and wide skies. The national park is right next door, and the night skies make stargazing part of everyday life. ✨

Life here is quiet and spread out. Many rentals are houses with land rather than flats, which gives kids space to roam.

Good for: families who want space, silence and a creative small-town feel.

Learning and work

Desert ecology, geology and astronomy are all on the doorstep. Most remote workers work from home, as formal coworking is limited. Palm Springs, about an hour away, has more options.

Hi-Desert Medical Center is in Joshua Tree itself and runs a 24-hour emergency department.

Before you choose Joshua Tree

• Summer heat regularly passes 40°C, which rules out midday play for young kids.
• The bigger supermarkets are in nearby Yucca Valley and Twentynine Palms.
• There are no international schools nearby, though visiting children can’t enrol locally anyway.

🏖️ San Diego, California

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

San Diego has the mildest weather on this page, and the beach is part of daily life. 🏖️ Families often look at North Park, Point Loma, La Mesa or Encinitas for parks, beaches and walkable streets.

Like most big Californian cities, it’s built around the car. Some neighbourhoods are walkable, but expect to drive for most outings.

Good for: beach-loving families who want year-round outdoor time and strong city services.

Learning and work

The Fleet Science Center is a good indoor option, and the tidepools at Cabrillo National Monument turn low tide into a biology lesson. Fast internet and coworking are easy to find. Hera Hub is a long-running local option.

Before you choose San Diego

• It’s the most expensive base here. Numbeo’s average for a three-bedroom flat outside the centre is around €3,850 a month.
• Good furnished rentals go quickly, especially for summer.
• A trip into Mexico doesn’t reset your 90 days.

🏞️ Yosemite Gateway Towns

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

Mariposa, Oakhurst and Groveland put you within driving distance of Yosemite. Rentals here often come with more space than you’d get on the coast, sometimes with a yard.

The rhythm is seasonal. Summer is busy with park visitors, while winter brings snow at higher elevations and much quieter towns.

Good for: families who want mountain living and a national park as their classroom.

Learning and work

Granite cliffs, waterfalls, giant sequoias and ranger talks make Yosemite one of the richest outdoor classrooms in the West. Coworking is basically absent, so plan to work from home and check internet speeds with your host.

The John C. Fremont hospital in Mariposa has a 24-hour emergency department, which is reassuring with a toddler.

Before you choose the Yosemite towns

• Yosemite is one of the 11 parks with the new nonresident surcharge. See the national parks section below.
• Summer traffic is heavy, and errands take longer.
• Check the NPS website for any entry reservations before you go.

🔴 Moab, Utah

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

Moab sits between Arches and Canyonlands, surrounded by red sandstone. Many families pass through in RVs and campervans, which creates a friendly roadschooling scene.

The town is small, with around 5,000 permanent residents. It works best as a base for a few weeks rather than months.

Good for: outdoorsy families on a road trip, especially in spring or autumn.

Learning and work

Arches, petroglyphs, desert ecology and very dark skies give kids plenty to explore. Phone coverage is generally fine in town but drops quickly in the canyons, so plan work days in town.

Moab Regional Hospital runs a 24/7 emergency department.

Before you choose Moab

• Summer heat is extreme for young children. Hike early and rest through the afternoon.
• As a tourist town, prices rise in peak season and services get stretched.
• Check whether Arches needs a timed entry booking for your dates.

🏔️ Bend, Oregon

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

Bend sits on the Deschutes River in Oregon’s high desert, with the Cascade mountains behind it. It suits families who want hiking, paddling and skiing from a proper town with cafés and services.

The town is small enough to feel personal, but big enough for good food and outdoor shops. Cycling and trail running are part of daily life here.

Good for: active families who want nature without giving up a town.

Learning and work

The river, volcanic landscapes and pine forests do most of the teaching. For work, Kiln opened a coworking space in the Old Mill District, about 4,000 m² on one site. Check current day pass and membership prices.

Before you choose Bend

• Housing costs have climbed sharply as the town has grown.
• Summer wildfire smoke can limit outdoor time for days or weeks.
• Winters are cold and snowy, which suits skiers more than beach lovers.

🌲 Flagstaff, Arizona

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

At about 2,100 metres, Flagstaff has pine forests and cool summers, which surprises people expecting Arizona heat. The Grand Canyon’s South Rim is roughly 90 minutes away.

The historic downtown is walkable, with cafés, bookshops and Route 66 history. It’s a natural place to regroup between desert parks.

Good for: families who want a cool summer base near the Grand Canyon.

Learning and work

Lowell Observatory runs public programmes, and Flagstaff is known for protecting its dark skies. The coworking scene is small, but laptop-friendly cafés are easy to find.

Before you choose Flagstaff

• Winters are long and snowy.
• The Grand Canyon is one of the 11 surcharge parks.
• It can feel quiet for families used to a big city.

🎭 Ashland, Oregon

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

Ashland is a small town in southern Oregon, best known for the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Southern Oregon University adds talks, events and a younger feel.

The pace is slow and friendly. Green hills and forest trails start close to town.

Good for: families who love theatre, books and a small-town rhythm.

Learning and work

Theatre, forest trails and a day trip to Crater Lake make an easy worldschooling mix. Expect to work from home or cafés rather than big coworking spaces.

Before you choose Ashland

• The international nomad community is small.
• Medford, about 20 kilometres away, has the bigger shops and hospital.
• Summer smoke can affect southern Oregon too.

🏜️ Zion and Bryce Canyon, Utah

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

Springdale sits right at Zion’s entrance. Kanab and Tropic work as bases for Bryce Canyon. Both parks are on the nonresident surcharge list, so read the national parks section before you budget.

These towns are tiny and built around visitors. They suit a few weeks of park days rather than a long stay.

Good for: families who want canyons on the doorstep and don’t mind small-town life.

Learning and work

Slot canyons, hoodoos and dark skies are the lessons here, and Zion’s Junior Ranger programme ties them together. Formal coworking doesn’t exist, so a reliable rental connection or hotspot matters.

Zion’s Watchman Campground costs $35 to $45 a night and opens bookings six months ahead. It fills nearly every night in season.

Before you choose Zion or Bryce

• Summer crowds are intense, and prices rise to match.
• Flash floods close canyon hikes, so check conditions each day.
• Bigger medical care is in St George.

🌲 Redwoods and the Northern California Coast

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

Arcata, Trinidad and Eureka sit between the redwood forests and the Pacific. Cal Poly Humboldt gives Arcata a university-town feel, along with good co-ops.

The pace is slow, and the community mixes students, artists and farmers. Local bakeries and bulk food stores make plant-based cooking easy.

Good for: families who love forests, cool weather and a quieter life.

Learning and work

Walks among some of the tallest trees on Earth, plus tidepools and bird life around Humboldt Bay, cover a lot of science. Internet is workable in Arcata and Eureka, but slower in small coastal settlements.

Before you choose the Redwoods

• Fog is common, even in summer.
• The area is remote, and bigger medical care is centred in Eureka.
• The international nomad community is small.

🌊 The Oregon Coast

🔎 Researched: we haven’t been.

Oregon’s beaches are public by law, so the whole coastline is open to everyone. It’s a beach-and-tidepool life, but a cool, misty one rather than a tropical one. 🌊

Astoria has a walkable historic centre and an arts scene. Cannon Beach, Newport and Bandon each feel different, so it’s worth visiting a few before settling.

Good for: families who want beaches, nature and a slow pace in summer.

Learning and work

Marine life, shipwreck history and coastal geology make easy lessons, and Cape Perpetua is known for its tidepools. Internet varies by town and even by street, so check speeds with your host before booking.

Before you choose the Oregon Coast

• Autumn and winter are wet and stormy, with fewer outdoor days.
• Some towns are very small and can feel isolating.
• Larger hospitals are further apart than in cities.

📍 Compare the Bases

The American West isn’t one place. A wet winter in Astoria and a hot summer in Moab are completely different lives. Pick by season first, then by what your family needs day to day.

Here’s a quick side-by-side of the 11 bases.

🏞️ National Parks: The New 2026 Fees

This is the biggest change for visiting families in 2026, and many guides haven’t caught up yet.

Since 1 January 2026, non-U.S. residents pay the standard entrance fee plus $100 per person aged 16 or older at 11 popular parks. The list includes Yosemite, Zion, Bryce Canyon, the Grand Canyon, and Sequoia and Kings Canyon. Fee-free days now apply to U.S. residents only.

What it means for a family like ours

Louie and Leo are under 16, so only Marty and I would pay the surcharge. Without a pass, four surcharge parks on one trip would cost about $940 in entry fees, including the $35 car fee at each.

The $250 nonresident annual pass (about €220) covers the entrance and nonresident fees for everyone in your car. With two adults, it pays for itself from the second surcharge park.

Check the current rules on the National Park Service nonresident fees page before you go.

Parks without the surcharge

Plenty of parks near the bases on this page aren’t on the surcharge list, so a mix keeps costs down. Arches, Canyonlands, Joshua Tree and Redwood are all outside the 11, as are Cabrillo National Monument and the Oregon Coast’s state parks. Standard entrance fees may still apply.

Booking tips

• Popular park campgrounds open bookings six months ahead, so set reminders.
• Some parks use timed entry or vehicle reservations in busy seasons. Check each park’s page.
• Bring ID, as staff may check residency for the nonresident fee.

🚗 Getting Around and Places to Stay

When Marty first visited California, he caught a bus to Los Angeles. Californians still laugh when he tells them. Almost nobody takes the bus there. 🚌

That says a lot about the American West. Outside Portland and San Diego, plan on a car. Distances are huge: Portland to San Diego is about 1,750 kilometres by road, and Moab to Yosemite is about 1,100.

Where to stay

Monthly furnished rentals are the easiest option in cities. Furnished Finder and Airbnb’s monthly stays are good places to start, and monthly rates are usually cheaper than nightly ones. Ask about internet speed, parking and the neighbourhood before booking.

Our accommodation guide for nomad families covers mid-term rentals in more detail.

RVs and campervans

An RV or campervan works well for park trips, but it isn’t the cheap option many people expect in summer. Rental, mileage, fuel and campsites add up quickly. We break down the numbers in the money section below.

• Book early: summer RVs and campsites go months ahead.
• Know the limits: Zion’s Watchman Campground caps stays at 14 nights a year.
• Plan fewer moves: long driving days are hard on toddlers and on parents trying to work.

💻 Work, Internet and Time Zones

Fast home internet is easy to find in Portland, San Diego and Bend. Numbeo puts home broadband at roughly $70 to $85 a month in those cities. In park towns and canyons, coverage drops quickly, so carry a hotspot and plan important calls from town.

Coworking is strongest in the cities. Kiln has spaces in Portland and Bend, and San Diego has plenty of choice. In small towns, home and café working is the norm.

Our remote work guide and internet speed guide cover the setup.

The time zone problem

Marty works European hours, roughly 10:00 to 15:00 Dutch time. Here’s what that looks like locally, next to a Queensland working day.

Clocks change on different dates in Europe and the USA, so check the exact offset around March and November. Arizona doesn’t use daylight saving.

That’s the honest reason we haven’t come back with the boys. For European hours, the American West means starting work in the middle of the night. For Australian hours, it means working afternoons and evenings, with mornings free for the kids.

🏫 School Rules for Visiting Families

Visiting children can’t enrol in US schools. The Department of Homeland Security says federal rules stop visitors enrolling in a course of study. That covers families on an ESTA or a visitor visa. Private schools also need a separate student visa, which is a much bigger process.

So most visiting families homeschool or worldschool while they’re here.

Homeschooling law

Homeschooling rules are set state by state. Oregon, for example, requires residents to send a one-time notice to their local Education Service District. Children are then tested in grades 3, 5, 8 and 10. Families on a short visit usually keep their home-country arrangement instead.

Our worldschooling legal guide explains the options, and the Oregon Department of Education has the official rules for Oregon.

🎒 Worldschooling in the American West

The American West does a lot of the teaching for you. Canyons explain geology better than any textbook. A ranger talk can cover science, history and listening skills in one hour.

For families worried that travel means falling behind, the West gives easy links to school subjects.

Junior Rangers, museums and history

Junior Ranger programmes are the easiest place to start. At Zion, free booklets are available for ages four and up, and kids attend a ranger-led programme to earn a badge. Every park has its own booklet and badge, which turns a road trip into a collection. 🏅

Science museums save hot or rainy days: OMSI in Portland, the Fleet Science Center in San Diego and Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff.

History is closer than you’d think. Nelson, where we took our wedding photos, sits beside the old Techatticup Mine, and mine tours need a booking. Louie would love the link to his middle name. 😄 Many parks also tell the history of the Indigenous nations whose land they protect.

Sport counts too. Louie followed every match of the 2026 World Cup, and Los Angeles and the San Francisco Bay Area both hosted games. For a football-mad nine-year-old, a stadium visit is geography and motivation in one. ⚽

With a nine-year-old and a two-year-old

At nine, Louie is the right age for Junior Ranger booklets, trail maps and journaling. Leo is the harder one. Many booklets start at three or four, and long canyon hikes don’t suit a toddler.

For little ones, the best learning here is simple: tidepools and beaches, short flat trails, and a ranger talk with something to hold. Plan each day around the youngest child’s energy, not the oldest child’s wish list.

The honest trade-offs

• Heat: desert parks are best for learning in spring and autumn.
• Driving: long drives eat into learning time, so fewer bases work better.
• Parent load: the planning falls on you, but ranger programmes give you a ready-made structure.
• Cost: booklets and most ranger talks are free, but park entry isn’t.

Our wildlife worldschooling guide explains why big animals make such good teachers. Our complete guide to worldschooling covers the different approaches, and homeschooling on the move shows how we structure lessons day to day.

🏥 Health and Safety

US healthcare is excellent and very expensive for visitors. Even a short emergency visit can cost far more than you’d expect at home, so insurance matters more here than almost anywhere.

Check that your policy covers the USA by name, because many cheaper plans exclude it or charge extra. Look closely at limits, excesses and pre-existing conditions. Our health insurance guide for nomad families explains what to look for.

💛 Our Pick for Getting Started

SafetyWing is genuinely where we started, and it’s still what we recommend to families just stepping into this lifestyle. No annual contracts, no huge upfront cost, cancel anytime it doesn’t suit. It’s not the most comprehensive option on this list, but it’s the easiest way to get real cover in place before you overthink it.

Get Covered with SafetyWing

Heat, smoke and hospitals

• Heat: summers in Moab, Joshua Tree and Zion often pass 40°C. Hike early and carry far more water than you think.
• Wildfire smoke: late summer can bring poor air quality to Oregon and inland California. This matters with a toddler.
• Small-town care: Joshua Tree, Moab and Mariposa all have hospitals with 24-hour emergency departments. Serious cases may still be flown to a bigger centre.

Other things to know

No special vaccinations are needed to enter the USA, but check your family’s routine vaccinations are up to date before you travel. A travel clinic or your GP can advise on current outbreaks.

After forest walks in Oregon and Northern California, check the kids for ticks. In the dry Southwest, a fungal infection called Valley fever comes from dusty soil. It’s worth knowing about, though most people who breathe in the spores never get sick.

🗓️ When to Go

Season matters more than base in the American West. The same place can be wonderful in April and miserable in July.

• Spring and autumn: the best time for Zion, Bryce, Moab and Joshua Tree, with milder days and fewer crowds.
• Summer: good for the Oregon Coast, the Redwoods, Bend and Flagstaff. It’s also peak season, with high prices and full campgrounds.
• Late summer: wildfire smoke is most likely in Oregon and inland California.
• Winter: San Diego stays mild. Bend, Flagstaff and the Yosemite high country get snow, and the Oregon Coast gets wet and stormy.

Our guide to the best time for families to travel compares seasons around the world.

💸 The Money: What a Month Could Cost

These are estimates, not quotes. They assume a family of four (two adults, a nine-year-old and a two-year-old) and were checked on 08-10-2026. Dollars are converted at roughly US$1.15 to €1, so check today’s rate.

Rents are Numbeo averages for unfurnished long-term flats. Furnished monthly rentals usually cost more. Everyday costs use Numbeo’s crowdsourced family estimate excluding rent, which is an indicative average rather than real family spending.

🛂 Visas and Entry Rules

These are the rules for Australian and Dutch passport holders, which is our family’s situation. Always check the official sources before booking, because US rules have changed several times recently.

The ESTA (visa waiver)

• Apply online before flying. Every family member needs their own ESTA, including babies.
• The fee is $40 per person, about €140 for a family of four. Check the current fee on the official ESTA website.
• Stays are up to 90 days, with no extensions. Side trips to Canada or Mexico generally count towards the same 90 days.

The visitor visa (B-1/B-2)

A visitor visa can allow longer stays, but it isn’t a nomad visa. It needs an embassy interview, and the application fee is $185 per person. A separate $250 “visa integrity fee” is now law, but at last check it wasn’t being collected at most embassies. See the State Department’s visitor visa page for the current rules.

Remote work (work permission)

Visitor entry doesn’t explicitly cover working for your own overseas employer. Many remote workers do it, but it’s a grey area, and the border officer decides who enters. If your income depends on getting in, don’t treat this as settled.

Tax (a separate issue)

Long or repeated stays can make you a US tax resident. The test counts days across three years, not just one. See a tax adviser before planning months here.

Travelling on mixed passports? Our mixed-passport visa guide explains how this works when parents hold different passports. The North America planning guide shows how US, Canadian and Mexican stays fit together over a year.

🤝 Community and Support

Finding your people takes effort anywhere, and the American West is spread out. The community here tends to form around activities rather than nomad hubs.

• Homeschool co-ops: many towns have co-ops and park days. Ask at libraries or in local parent groups before you arrive.
• Coworking spaces: city spaces often run events and family-friendly socials.
• Campgrounds: RV families often meet at campfires and swap routes and tips.
• Ranger programmes: they’re a natural way for kids to meet other kids.

Our own Facebook community is a good place to ask questions before you go.

✅ Quick Tips Before You Go

• Phones: a US eSIM or prepaid SIM is easy to set up on arrival. Check coverage maps for the parks you’ll visit.
• Money: a fee-free card saves on every purchase. We use Wise, and our guide to managing money abroad explains how we set it up.
• Car hire: book early for summer, especially near parks.
• Offline maps: download them before heading into canyons.
• Water: carry more than you think in the desert, and start hikes early.
• Your exit date: count your 90 days carefully, including any trips to Canada or Mexico.

🌱 Treading Lightly

National parks protect extraordinary places, and many were created on land taken from Indigenous nations. Learning whose land you’re on, and supporting Indigenous-run businesses and museums, is a good habit for families.

In the parks, follow Leave No Trace principles: carry out your rubbish, stay on trails and keep your distance from wildlife. Check fire restrictions in summer, as campfire bans are common.

Our guide to living sustainably while travelling as a family has more ideas.

❓ FAQs

How long can our family stay in the USA?

Up to 90 days on an ESTA. Trips to Canada or Mexico generally don’t reset the clock.

Can we work remotely on an ESTA?

It’s a grey area. Visitor entry doesn’t explicitly cover it, and the border officer decides who enters.

Can our kids go to school while we visit?

No. Visiting children can’t enrol in US schools, so plan to homeschool or worldschool.

How much does a month cost?

Our estimate for a family of four is about €7,200 to €9,200 in Portland or San Diego, excluding flights and insurance.

Is the $250 park pass worth it?

Usually, yes. With two adults, it pays for itself from the second surcharge park.

Is the American West good for worldschooling?

Yes, especially for kids around six to twelve. National parks, Junior Ranger programmes and dark-sky towns cover science, history and literacy for little more than park entry.

When should we go?

Spring and autumn suit the deserts. Summer suits the coast and mountains, but brings crowds and smoke risk.

Is anywhere easy for European working hours?

No. Expect to start work between 01:00 and 02:00 local time.

What about Hawai’i?

The same 90-day rule applies. Our Hawai’i guide covers island life in detail.

🌵 Our Takeaways

The American West has given us one big day. An elopement in Las Vegas, a ghost town that became Louie’s middle name, and a rollercoaster ride in a wedding dress.

As a family, we’d come back for three things: the national parks, cycling in Portland and the beaches. The honest hurdle is Marty’s working hours, not the visas or even the cost.

If the West is on your list, start with the 90-day clock, your work hours and the new park fees. Then pick your bases around the seasons. Maybe one day we’ll take Louie to see where his name comes from. 🌵